It’s on the expensive side. But if you’re looking to treat yourself to expensive, rustic food, this is a good one to check out. Did I mention expensive?
“And the food, with its service-included pricing, now deserves its own narrative. It finally wows. Lecki’s all-day American fare makes hearth cooking feel like the primal — yet studied — act of deliciousness it should be, rather than the performative and pedestrian act it’s become in too many restaurants installing Cadillac grills. Her creations, more gutsy than gut-busting, are lighter and brighter than much of what she put out at The Breslin, with no fatty steaks for two, with acid used strategically, and with the flavor of fire feeling more like a subtle background note than an overwhelming act of quasi-barbecue.”
